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Nice, Côte d'Azur
Beautiful cultured Mediterranean city in the heart of the Côte d'Azur
Nice has been attracting tourists for at least the last two centuries thanks to its lovely coastline and cultural heritage. It may lack the glamour of nearby Cannes and Monaco, but it's all the better for that, keeping its feet firmly on the ground.
It offers a fantastic experience for the visitor - the old town has been restored and much of the centre is pedestrianised. There are activities galore to enjoy throughout the year, with concerts, gallery exhibitions and festivals. Within a very short drive of Nice are the beautiful inland villages of Vence and St Paul de Vence, which makes Nice a perfect base for a holiday.
History & Culture in Nice
Nice is an old city, and when you wander its streets you can imagine the centuries that have passed, from the Greek and Roman settlements, to the harsh Middle Ages when there was a castle on the hill and the merchants and servants, all who depended on the fortunes of the castle occupants, living in cramped quarters within a walled enclave.
Only 32km from the Italian border, it was actually part of Italy until 1860, when it was ceded to France. This Italian connection is not only evident in local dishes or baroque architecture, but there is a different kind of feeling in the air, especially in Old Nice.
In recent times Nice had fallen into complete disrepair only to be rescued by the utterly corrupt Mayor Jacques Médecin, who ruled the city for 24 years until he fled to Uruguay. When you admire the neatly restored houses and buildings in the old town you must admit that at least he did something worthwhile.
Things to do in Nice
Explore the town, in particular the old part, Vieux Nice.
At the foot of a hill, named La Château (though there's no longer a castle in place) lies the old part of the sprawling city. Where the newer part flaunts a mile-long promenade, palatial hotels, and parking garages, Vieux Nice offers a warren of alleys, tiny boutiques and restaurants, and no parking.
The heart of Old Nice is undoubtedly the Cours Saleya, where a daily flower and vegetable market is held, except on Monday. That's when a flea and antiques market attracts throngs of visitors, locals and tourists.
Along the Cours and behind the stalls, a range of restaurants can be found, with indoor seating as well tables in the open-air. Many of them specialise in fish and seafood, not surprising when the old port is just around the corner. Towards the end of the morning the restaurants begin setting up displays of fresh fish, lobster or mussels.
North of the Cours is the intricate network of alleys with pastel-coloured houses, broken up by a square, large or small, historic buildings, such as Palais Lacaris, a 17th century palace, now a city museum, or the Cathedral of Ste-Réparate, with its glowing dome.
Guide books and tourist office leaflets recommend walking tours. You can follow the dotted lines in the guide, even take the tourist trolley and make sure that you don't miss out on the important land marks. You soon find out that you are not alone on such a walk. But try to step into a next alley, one that is not filled with shops and other attractions, and all of a sudden you step into a world of quiet. You may even find a tiny eatery, often Italian fare. The Italian-Nice connection is no surprise if you know that Nice was in Italian hands until 1860! Nissa, as Nice is still known to locals.
Dining in Nice
There are pizza restaurants everywhere, advertising "pizza au feu du bois," made in wood-burning ovens or socca (a crêpe made of chickpeas) or pissalidière, a crusty onion-anchovy-olive specialty.
